In a remote corner of southwest Texas, in a large crook formed by the meandering Rio Grande, the Chisos Mountains rise from the rolling desert scrub and soar to nearly 8,000 feet. Surrounded by vast and often unforgiving terrain that stretches endlessly into the horizon, the majority of this massive expanse (over 800,000 acres to be exact) forms Big Bend National Park, one of the least visited parks in the United States.
But with hundreds of miles of four-wheel-drive roads, an extensive trail system, and the curvaceous Rio Grande winding along its southern border, Big Bend is a multi-sport outdoorsman’s dream and an under-appreciated gem of the Southwest. Load up the raft, mountain bike, and packs and plan on sampling all that this varied desert landscape has to offer.
Overview
Backpacking the Outer Mountain Loop
Starting high in the Chisos Basin, winding through the park’s highest peaks and down into the scrubby rolling desert, then heading back into elevated terrain, the 30-mile Outer Mountain Loop is one of the prize backpacking routes in the US. Reliable springs are nearly non-existent for most of the trip, so caching water at the Homer Wilson Ranch along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive is essential.
Start at the Chisos Basin Trailhead and slowly wind your way up the switchbacks and into the mountains along the Pinnacles Trail. After cresting the Pinnacles Summit, enjoy the scenic cruise through Boot Canyon. If there’s time, make a quick two-mile detour to the summit of the park’s highest point, Emory Peak, for epic 360-degree views that extend well into Mexico. After tagging the peak, make the steep descent down into Juniper Canyon and make camp.
Day two takes you across the undulating topography of the Dodson Trail, which skirts the vast desert in the southern part of the park. Drink plenty of water on this hot, shadeless stretch, and explore the historic ruins of the Dodson Ranch before trekking onward, following rock cairns to the Homer Wilson Ranch and your precious stash of hydration. Make camp up the trail from the ranch.
The final day starts by traveling among sandy washes and large red rock formations reminiscent of southern Utah before climbing back up towards the wooded peaks of the Chisos. Steep switchbacks give way to wide panoramas to the south before flattening out into the Laguna Meadows Trail and eventually making the gradual descent back down to the Chisos Basin.
Floating the Rio Grande
Forming the southern boundary of the park for 118 miles, passing through three major canyons (Santa Elena, Mariscal, and Boquillas), and ranging from flat water to class IV rapids, the Rio Grande makes for a unique multi-day river trip. The most popular stretch is through Santa Elena Canyon, where 1500-foot walls hold varied, technical rapids and Indian pictographs. Private trips are arranged through the park backcountry office, and Big Bend River Tours in Terlingua offers custom guided trips and updated river information
(888-545-4240, www.bigbendrivertours.com)
Bonus: After a few days on the river or the trails, head down to the southeastern border of the park, where the remnants of an old mineral spa are still home to a soothing hot spring on the banks of the Rio Grande—a solid choice for the epic stargazing to be had in this remote corner of the country.
Essential Gear
Platypus Platy Bottle – Even in the cooler months, dehydration is a constant threat in this desert climate, and treatable springs are few and far between, so be sure to pack plenty of agua. A few of these lightweight water bags should do the trick.
SealLine Zip Dry Duffle Bag – In between flat water sections, the Rio Grande can surge up to class IV in the canyons, so bring plenty of dry storage. Fully waterproof and more versatile than a standard dry bag, this tough bag stashes your dry clothes and gear while easily strapping down to your raft.
Osprey Atmos 50 Backpack – Ideal for the three-day Outer Mountain Loop, the Atmos is a tried-and-true design for lightweight weekend trips. The concave back panel lets air flow on sweltering desert days, and tons of organizer pockets hold all your backpacking essentials.
Logistics
Outer Mountain Loop in Red
Maps: Trails Illustrated #225 – Big Bend National Park
Permits: Backcountry permits are required for all backpacking and river trips and are given on a first-come, first-served basis at the Visitor’s Center. Backcountry sites are $10/night.
Getting There: Big Bend National Park is located along the Rio Grande in southwest Texas, a six hour drive from the El Paso International Airport.
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Tags: backpacking, biking, hiking in texas, hiking national parks, hot springs, rafting, Trip of the Month