Dirty Pleasures: Trail Running Shoes 101

By: Beth Lopez | May 25th, 2010 | Posted in Gear Guide, Newsletter | Tags: , , , ,
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Trail running is hard. Seriously, hard—anyone who tells you it ‘just comes easily to them’ has access to illegal drugs we haven’t encountered here in Utah. But those who know the joy of pushing through the burn will tell you that you can do quite a bit to make running far more comfortable and enjoyable—specifically, you can select the right pair of trail running shoes. Investing in the right shoes can spare you diabolical blisters, aggravated knees, and squashed purple toenails. You can comfortably revel in the euphoria of running your first three-mile loop without stopping, or in the feeling of breaking your personal record on a grueling ultra-run. To select the right pair of shoes, there are a number of variables to consider. Let’s start by looking at the parts that make up a trail running shoe.

Anatomy of a Trail Shoe

Parts of a trail running shoe

Click to Enlarge

Upper: The entire top half of the shoe

  • Lace system: either standard laces or a BOA system, or some alternative. Laces run through eyelets, which secure them to the rest of the shoe.
  • Vamp: the toe of the shoe (toebox is inside). Saddle and overlays surround the sides of the foot
  • Heel counter: the stiff support that surrounds your heel. The heel tab is the part immediately around your Achilles tendon, and it provides a notch for the tendon.
  • Collar: the soft, cushy top of the heel, where you slip your foot into the shoe
  • Tongue: cushions the top of your foot from the shoe laces. A gusset at the sides of the tongue keeps water, dirt, and debris from sneaking into the shoe.
  • Insole: what your foot directly rests on—can be swapped out for an orthotic, gel insert, custom footbed, etc.

Lower: The parts under your foot

  • Midsole: a main shock absorber, can be dual-density to provide special cushioning to different parts of the foot
  • Shank: something stiff (yet flexible) underneath your arch that gives the shoe its lateral structure and deflects bumps and rocks underneath
  • Outsole: The external bottom of the shoe with traction, reinforcement overlays, and shock absorption. Some tread patterns are particularly grippy on rocks, some dig into dirt well, some shed mud, etc.

What to Ask Yourself

Now that you know the anatomy of the beast, what do you need to consider when selecting the right one?

  • Terrain type and conditions: Do you need a waterproof shoe with a Gore-Tex insert to keep you dry on rainy days and on puddle and stream crossings? Do you tend to run on smoother rock and dirt surfaces or are you going across scree fields? Decide just how much lugged traction, structural burliness, and sticky rubber you need.
  • Distance: The more built-in support a shoe has, the more it’s going to weigh. So feel free to get a supportive, stable shoe if you tend to just run a few miles each time. But if you’re regularly running long distances, a lighter-weight shoe might work better. Find a balance between weight and support—where do your needs fall?
  • Road vs. Trail: We designed this guide for trail runners, but it’s good to be aware of the differences between a trail shoe and a road shoe. Trail shoes have much more built-in support and stability, which, naturally, weighs more. Road shoes are much lighter in weight but normally don’t have deep tractional lugs or a shank that spares you from feeling sharp rocks underfoot. So how do you divide your time between road and trail? Taking your trail shoes on the road occasionally won’t do you any harm, but it may not be the very most comfortable or endurance-oriented option.
  • Your foot shape: Do you have high or flat arches? Bony ankles? Oddly-shaped toes? Try a “wet test” to get an idea of your arch type. Dip your foot in a pan of water, then carefully make a footprint on a dry surface like a paper bag. Take a look at the shape to evaluate:
Foot Shape

Foot shape - click to enlarge

  • Pronation and supination: A foot is supposed to pronate, or roll slightly inward from your heel toward your big toe as you step, but not too much. Many people over-pronate, or roll too far inward, and this wears both on your shoes and your body. A “motion-control” shoe can correct for this with extra arch support and construction that will gently nudge feet toward a correct movement. The opposite of over-pronation is supination, which is sometimes the case for people with rigid, high arches—they strike the ground on the outside edge of the foot instead of rolling inward, which can lead to stress fractures and general discomfort. Supinators should avoid shoes designed for over-pronators and should steer toward cushioned shoes that absorb some of the harsh impact on the foot’s edge. Taking a look at a shoe you’ve worn down can help you determine:

Outsole wear patterns - click to enlarge

The Pros Weigh In

Matt Hart Trail Runner

Matt Hart

We’re fortunate enough to have a couple of all-star runners on the Backcountry.com Pro Athlete Team. So we shot a few questions to our own Karl Metzer Jr., repeat-demolisher of numerous ultramarathons (26 victories and counting—more than any other runner alive), and Matt Hart, who collects trophies in ultra-marathons, 24-hour solo mountain bike races, ski mountaineering, and adventure racing like your grandma collects creepy porcelain angels. (Ed Note: Karl and Matt run for Hoka and Montrail, respectively.)

What do you look for in a trail running shoe, first and foremost?

Karl: Comfort, first. And I like finding a pair that won’t break down for at least 400-500 miles, which is hard to find.

Matt: I look at weight first and foremost…. Protection next, and tread.

What specific features do you require?

Karl Metzer Jr. - trail runner

Karl Metzer Jr.

Karl: A sole that has good traction, with a soft feel yet resilient to rocks on the trail.

Matt: For my foot, I need a wide toe box, so my foot has room to spread out on impact.

How often do you switch shoes out? (Most manufacturers recommend every 300-500 miles)

Karl: I go through about 15 pairs a year. I don’t rotate them; once a pair is toast, it’s sent to the goodwill. It depends on what shoe you wear—the new Hokas I have last a lot longer than anything else I’ve tried.

Matt: I keep two pairs of Montrail Rockridges in rotation—they’re half a size different. I generally wear the bigger pair when I run long and ultra distances. It allows more room for my foot to swell and reduces the chance of blisters caused by rubbing.

What are the primary differences between a shoe that a recreational runner would use versus a shoe that a pro ultra-runner would use?

Karl: There shouldn’t be any difference between what a pro or amateur uses, really. Whatever fits you best is right. Each person has different feet.

Matt: Finding the right shoe is vitally important. Not taking this seriously can cause injury. I don’t think there is any difference between the shoes that a recreational runner should use and ones a pro should use, but a pro runner probably has a stronger foot and can wear a more minimal shoe for a longer time. Whereas a recreational user might want a bit more protection and stability until his feet are ready for the tough trails.

What’s the worst day your feet ever had?

Karl: When I ran the entire Appalachian Trail, having to run 40 miles a day was a challenge simply because it was day-in, day-out running. Each day, each individual toe needed attention. Whether it was taping or whatever, the challenge was to not let them hurt all day for about 50 days.

Matt: The 2006 Primal Quest Expedition Adventure Race. It took place in Moab in July and we raced 400 miles across that desert sand. Everyone’s feet were mincemeat. No one escaped it. I ended up putting duct tape over the mesh on my shoes to try to stop the sand from getting in. It was like sand paper in your shoes, day after day. (Ed. note: Ew.)

The Rundown: How Shoes Should Feel…

In a word, comfy. You need a bit of wiggle room for your toes, because they’re going to expand in volume a bit once you’re on a run.  The sides of your feet should nestle gently against the inside of the shoe—no jamming against the sides, and no free airspace in there either. Your heel should be securely cupped, with no sliding or squishing when you walk.

…And How Shoes Shouldn’t Feel

You shouldn’t feel any tightness or pinching in most instances—don’t confuse tightness with support. You shouldn’t feel your laces through the shoe’s tongue, either. Feeling your laces means the laces are too thin (which makes them dig in) or your tongue is too isn’t padded enough. You don’t want to feel any seams digging into your foot, because those spots will definitely turn into happiness-grinding blisters.

Remember that localized pain signals a specific problem, and with a bit of research, you can resolve discomfort and prevent future injuries by listening to what pain tells you. The absence of pain means you’ve attained the holy grail of running—a shoe that is compatible with your feet and your needs.

A Few Helpful Links for Continuing Education:

Runner’s World Shoe Info Homepage

Interactive Shoe-Finder for Specific Foot Types

Karl Metzer’s Blog Will Get You Off the Couch

….So Will Matt Hart’s

So, what have your feet taught you about trail running shoes? What makes them feel awesome, and what makes your toes plot against you? Leave a comment below.

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5 Responses to “Dirty Pleasures: Trail Running Shoes 101”

  1. Terril Honey says:

    I live in Southern Utah. My trail running is mostly sand and slickrock. For years I have ran in Gore-Tex Trail Running Shoes. Most consider Gore-Tex for keeping your feet dry. I’ve found that it works just as well keeping the sand out of your shoes. That makes trail running enjoyable.

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  2. Mary says:

    Since many of us non-runners wear trail runners for hiking and backpacking, it might be useful to address our concerns, too!

    Unlike the previous commenter, I refuse to wear Goretex lined shoes. They make my feet sweat like crazy (so that they’re always wet) and once the shoes get wet inside, they take days to dry! With a well-ventilated pair of trail runners, I can leave them on for crossing streams (far more support than Crocs or sandals) and know they’ll be dry within an hour afterwards.

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  3. Brigitte says:

    I do a lot a long day hikes (15 – 19 miles during spring summer) all season and have difficulty finding a good light weight mid-height hiking boot. If you experience squashed purple toenails, what is wrong with the boot last that is causing this issue? I tried sizing up 1/2 size, but then I need to wear heavier socks and lace differently to avoid heel slippage. Any sugestions or particular boot brands would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Brigitte

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  4. Beth says:

    Hey Brigitte-
    I’ve had trouble with this in the past too, and I think I’ve found the solution. I either hike or trail run every single day all spring or summer, so I’ve gotten a lot of feedback from my feet. :)

    You need to find a shoe with an ample toebox. Don’t size up; just get your normal size, but get a particular shoe with room for your toes to wiggle up and down. I find that Vasque works immensely well for me. They fit snugly around my entire foor EXCEPT my toes have room to wiggle up and down. At first, I was confused and wondered if I got a size too big, but everything but the toes is perfectly snug and holds my foot securely. So I went with it, and now I buy nothing but Vasque hiking boots and trail running shoes. (I have my own little fleet.)

    I can’t guarantee that they’ll fit you as perfectly, because everyone’s foot is different, but maybe give them a whirl. And if Vasque doesn’t fit you, just find a different brand with a large toebox that fits the rest of your foot.

    Beth

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  5. Aquasana says:

    What an amazing guide. Thank you for taking the time to put this great 101 guide together I am bookmarking this page for sure. Just stumbled upon your site searching for trail running info.

    Thanks for the help.

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