The great North Woods have long been a destination for wilderness travelers of all varieties, and nowhere are the woods greater and more northern (at least in the states) than in Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area. With a million acres of quiet forest (double that when counting Canada’s neighboring Quetico Provincial Park), more than 1,000 unspoiled rivers and lakes, and over 1500 miles of canoe routes to choose from, the BWCA wilderness offers nearly unlimited options to the intrepid backcountry paddler. Seeing other people is a rare occurrence, and often the only sounds you’ll hear are the lap of water on the shore, the soft chirp of crickets, and the occasional loon call.
Overview
The canoe is the traditional craft of choice, but touring-style kayaks have become more prevalent in recent years and make a fine substitute. Since the possibilities for canoe routes and trip lengths are virtually limitless in this vast wilderness expanse, we won’t recommend a specific itinerary in this trip of the month. The best thing to do is read up, call local outfitters, and design a course that suits both your experience level and the amount of time you have. The endless amount of fingered lakes and winding rivers can make orienting yourself difficult, so know your limits and make sure your group has solid navigation skills. Numerous local outfitters lead guided excursions into the BWCA for those who need some first-time assistance.
Be sure to come armed with rods, reels, and plenty of bait—going to the Boundary Waters without fishing gear is like showing up in Hawaii without a bathing suit. Walleye, pike, and many other (delicious) species inhabit these waters, and nothing caps off a day in the North Woods like some pan-fried fish.
Essential Gear:
- Ben’s 30% Deet Insect Repellant: In early and mid-summer, the biting insects in northern Minnesota rival those of Alaska. With 30 percent Deet, this formula is enough to keep bloodsuckers at bay without making you feel like you’re spraying on pure cancer. Alternatives include the Sea-To-Summit Mosquito Head Net and Ex Officio Insect Shield clothing.
- MSR Zing Tarp: If a storm rolls in, this massive shelter gives your group a dry place to cook, play cards, or pass the hooch around.
- Stohlquist Fisherman Life Jacket: This handy PFD pulls double duty as a life jacket and fishing vest when you’re trolling the lakes and rivers for a tasty walleye dinner. Two large zip pockets and four elastic loops keep all your necessities within reach.
- SealLine Boundary Dry Pack: Designed and named for the infamous portages and inevitable dousing you’re sure to encounter in the BWCA, this dry-bag backpack makes those back-breaking transfers a little more bearable.
Logistics:
Maps/Required Reading:
USGS topo maps are the way to go, and having your compass skills dialed is essential. As a starting point to find which maps you’ll need, BWCA.com has several map and planning resources.
Daniel Pauly’s Exploring the Boundary Waters provides insightful trip planning and route descriptions.
Robert Beymer’s guides to the Eastern Region and Western Region also give tons of detailed and useful info.
Permits:
A permit is required to enter the BWCA for any period of time. They are specific to your entry point and are given through a lottery and application process starting December 1. For more info click HERE or call 1-877-550-6777.
Getting There:
With over a million acres of terrain, the BWCA has a number of entry points. Ely and Grand Marais, Minn., serve as the two major hubs for outfitters and supplies; both are around two hours north of Duluth, and 4.5 hours north of Minneapolis.
Guide Services:
The number of outfitters available for trips in the area is huge. Here are a few links to check out:
Tips:
This is black bear country, so be sure to hang your food (some campsites feature bear poles) or use a canister like the Bear Vault.
Try to organize all gear in easily packable dry bags or packs—most routes will encounter mandatory overland portages.
If your itinerary includes a crossing into Quetico, you must obtain a Remote Border Crossing Permit (RBCP) to legally enter Canada. Apply for the permit HERE.
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Tags: boundary waters, canoeing, kayaking, Trip of the Month
Ahh the BWCA. So beautiful. Thanks for mentioning such a beautiful place, I’m going to start looking at setting up a trip now.
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Just returned from 7-days in the BWCA. This is a beautiful place – no luck with the fish, but did not have mosquito problems. I’ll take that trade. Highly recommend going to the lakes without motor boats. You don’t realize how much noise they create until you’ve spend a few days without.
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Just a note – You will need a passport to enter and return from a Quetico trip. Also the camping fees for Canada are on a per person per day rate. You have to do a cost benefit comparison. BWCAW is downright cheap but can be crowded while Quetico is expensive but relatively lonely. We returned from a BWACW trip 6/23 and the bugs were not as bad as at home. I’ve made 20 trips and only had 1 trip where they were bad.
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