Backcountry Beacon

We start our Thru-Hike Favorites on the West Coast, in the appropriately named Goat Wilderness (we couldn’t resist). But before elaborating on what we consider to be the best section of the Pacific Crest Trail, a little background:

On its way from Mexico to California, the Pacific Crest Trail traverses some of the world’s most spectacular terrain. The trail passes through six of the seven eco-regions in North America, seven National Parks, 24 National Forests, and 34 Wilderness Areas. Traditionally hiked south to north, the trail itself is split into five distinct sections: Southern California, Central California, Northern California, Oregon, and Washington. While a handful of hardy souls thru-hike the trail each season, the vast majority of PCT travelers hike smaller sections of the trail. In fact, fewer people have thru-hiked the PCT than have climbed Mt. Everest.

Entire Hike

Start: Campo, California
End: Manning Park, British Columbia
Length: 2650 miles (4265km)
Best Time to Hike: Start April, end September
Weather/Climate: Desert, rain forest, high alpine, and everything in between

Favorite Hike: Goat Wilderness

Start: North Fork Campground, WA
End: Walupt Lake, WA
Length: 27 miles (a long weekend)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best Time: Summer, early fall

Along the Goat Wilderness section of the PCT, there is snow year round, and you get amazing views of Rainier. And it’s called Goat Wilderness for a reason: few have ventured up there without seeing a mountain goat.

This little known wilderness area provides some of the best views along the entire PCT. The peaks and rock formations of the Goat Rocks are remnants of an ancient volcano that once stood at over 12,000 feet, but two million years of wind and rain have eroded the volcano into jagged peaks ranging from eight to 12 thousand feet in elevation. The peaks are named for the plentiful mountain goats that call the range home. The trail from North Fork Campground to Walupt Lake is a 27-mile, 3-day trip through the heart of the wilderness area. You’ll need two cars; drop one off at Walupt Lake and then drive to the trailhead at North Fork.

The Hike

After, leaving North Fork Campground, the trail slowly climbs up through conifer forest until meeting up with the PCT and heading south for another mile. A short side trip down to McCall Basin offers plenty of campsites. Set-up camp, enjoy the night sky, and hit the hay early. The second day consists twelve miles of grueling up and down hiking. This section is the windiest, most exposed section of the trip, but also the most spectacular. If the weather looks iffy, it’s best to wait a day. The trail here is not only strenuous with lots of up and down hiking at over 8,000 feet (the highest section of the PCT in Washington), but often skirts precipitous drop-offs. A good set of trekking poles and a bit of bravery are key. The payoff of course, is views of Mt. Rainier, Adams, St. Helens, and the ever-present Goat Mountains that will make you quit your day job and become an underpaid federal employee. The climb up to Elk Pass will get your lungs burning. If you feel up to it, continue up to the Packwood Glacier crossing, if not, continue on the trail to Snowgrass flat.

The third day starts with a steep climb up to Crispus Pass, then drops back down into lush alpine meadows, waterfalls, and more gorgeous views of the Cascades. Another ascent, this time up to Nannie Peak, takes you to the final, steep, 4.5 mile descent to Walupt Campground. You might be exhausted and your knees may hurt, but we guarantee you’ll remember this trip for a lifetime.

A field of Lupine in Goat Rocks Wilderness

Getting There

To Walupt Lake

From Portland Oregon, head I-5 North for 75 miles, then take US-12 East toward Yakima (Exit 68). After 61.6 miles, turn right onto a Forest Service Gravel Road (FS Road #21), follow this for 15.6 miles to a sharp left onto FS Road #2160. After another 4.4 miles, you’re there. Easy eh? Make sure you have a forest pass, else you might get a ticket.

To North Fork Campground

Get yourself back onto US-12 E, go about 35 miles to Dev Road #1200/ Tieton Reservoir Road. Continue until you hit Teiton Road/FS Road #1207, then another 5 miles till the road dead ends at North Fork Campground.

Miscellany

Most of this trail is above timberline, on scree or shale, so good boots, extra layers , and an adventurous spirit are key. Be sure to load up on water at McCall Basin, as there is no water for twelve miles on day two. A light ice ax may be useful to cross Packwood glacier (which is more of a snowfield than a crevassed, full scale glacier, but still potentially dangerous).

Resources

• Forest Service – Wilderness Goat Rocks
• Pacific Crest Trail Association
• Trail Description & GPS Coordinates
• Ira Spring and Harvey Manning. 100 Hikes in Washington’s South Cascades and Olympics. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1998.

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• Camp Chef Recipe #7: Falafel & Couscous

Tags: backpacking, pacific crest trail, thru hiking, weekend hikes