Routefinding errors contributed to 20% of climbing accidents in 2009. Jesse Mattner staying on route on The Scenic Cruise (V 5.10+) in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.
Each year, the American Alpine Club publishes the one book that no one wants to be in—Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Inside its pages is everything from the most mellow of injuries to horrible accidents that ended in death. The reason that the American Alpine Club publishes such a depressing book every year is so climbers have the opportunity to learn from others’ mistakes. In the 2010 edition, which covers the 2009 season, there were a total of 126 accidents that made the book. Of these accidents, there were 10 things that stuck out as contributing factors.
Experience
It’s easy to assume that someone who gets hurt didn’t know what he or she was doing. However, in the 2009 season nearly 48% of the victims had more than three years of climbing experience. Now, this doesn’t necessarily mean that all of these climbers were what an average climber would refer to as “experienced.” I know lots of climbers who have been at it for five years but only have five first-years’ worth of experience. But if you take into account that over 43% of the victims were of “unknown” experience, and some of them must have known what they were doing, you can come to one conclusion. Just because you’ve been climbing for a long time does not mean you are immune.
Getting Off-Route
Nearly 20% of all accidents in 2009 happened as a result of climbers getting off-route. Route-finding can be extremely hard in some areas, and we’ve all made route-finding errors. (I recently started a Black Canyon route about 200 feet too far to the right, and we didn’t join up with the actual route until the top of the third pitch … sometimes getting off route is just annoying and time-consuming.) If you encounter loose rock, poor protection, or climbing that’s harder than you feel comfortable on, then you may want to think about turning around before things get completely out of hand.
Not Placing Enough Gear
Just under 9% of the accidents were a result of inadequate protection. Most experienced climbers think nothing of running it out on easy terrain, especially on long routes where time is a major concern. However, easy terrain can be the worst to fall on because it’s generally not as steep as the difficult stuff and there are usually more ledges to hit on the way down. When you’re running a long way between pieces, keep in mind what your fall will be like. If you’re going to take a 50-footer into air on a steep pitch, then a fall won’t be that big of a deal. If you’re going to tumble down 50-feet of 75-degree rock, then you want to be really sure that you’re not going to come off. Remember, one loose hold can end your season.
Poor Belaying
Belayers were a contributing cause for 8% of the accidents. This one is very avoidable. Your partners trust you with their lives, so take the responsibility seriously. Make sure that you’re in a position that allows you to make the catch no matter how big your partner whips, and never, ever, under any circumstances take your brake hand off the rope. This fall was completely avoidable. What should have been a routine top-rope fall turned into a 50-foot ground fall, and all because of improper belaying.
Falling Objects
Things falling from the sky are a surprisingly large problem for climbers. In 2009, falling rock and ice contributed to 8% of all accidents. A lot of people approach the bottom of a long rock route or ice climb, flop down their packs, gear up, put their helmets on, and begin climbing. Well, you’re just as exposed to falling objects at the base of a route as you are when you’re on it, so why wait to put on your helmet? This is especially true for ice climbing. Not only should you have your brain bucket on your head before you approach the bottom of a cliff or waterfall, but you should also gear up in as sheltered of a location as you can find.
Placing Poor Gear
Ripping gear resulted in a bit over 5% of the accidents in 2009. Take the time to learn how to place gear properly before risking a fall on anything. Learn from someone who has been at it a while (and isn’t the type of person to brag about big, nasty, gear ripping falls that they’ve taken). Place gear at ground level and test it. Read books on the subject. Follow experienced trad leaders and clean their pieces. Do whatever you have to do to learn what is a good piece and what is just a decoration. This video is a perfect example of what happens when your gear isn’t solid.
Poor Crampon Technique / Poor Self-Arrest
Improper use of crampons accounted for about 5% of climbing accidents, and an inability to self-arrest resulted in an additional 6% of the total. The fanciest gear in the world doesn’t do you much good if you don’t know how to use it. Before you decide to head up Hood, Rainier, Adams, or any other peak, make sure you know how to properly walk in crampons on a variety of angles, over varying terrain, and while tied to a rope. Once you’ve done that, make sure you know how to self-arrest if something does happen, and you slip. There are a wide range of books, videos, and classes that teach these techniques. Do not go into the mountains without these basic skills.
Rappelling
About 5% of the accidents were a result of some kind of error made while rappelling. This essentially consists of either setting up a rappel device incorrectly or rappelling off the end of your ropes. Remember, it’s the things that you’ve done a million times and don’t think too much about that end up getting you in the end. Double and triple check everything before you begin a rappel, and back up your device with a prusic or autoblock if there’s even the slightest chance of being hit by a falling object or losing control in some other way.
No one will deny that climbing is a dangerous sport. You’ve never seen Accidents in North American Golf on the bookshelves, have you? Despite all the objective danger, the things within the climber’s control are most often the cause of an accident.
Climb smart, double-check everything, take the time to learn, and be safe out there. I’d be a very happy person if next year’s edition were several pages thinner than it was this year.
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Tags: alpine climbing, american alpine club, mountaineering, survival