Backcountry Beacon

Part 2: Putting it all together

Building a rack is an investment that is best viewed on a lifelong time frame. You’ll have to throw down on the front end, but aside from occasionally cleaning, re-lubing and re-slinging, cams will last many years. If you climb in The Desert or other cam intensive nitch crags like Vedauwoo, then your rack is never really complete.  Don’t despair.  If you frequent these venues, you will probably make friends with other like-minded individuals and have an open door policy of gear borrowing and lending.

Before reading my personal (and therefore biased) rack suggestions, keep in mind that what works for one person might not work for another. My rack recommendations are based on the preference of having overlapping sizes between brands. Huh? While the manufactures’ chart of size range shows no gap between cam sizes, one always exists. Fortunately, the sweet spot on brands with a single axle typically compliment the gaps of cams with double axel designs (and vice versa) For example: a #2 Wild Country fits perfectly between a #0.75 and #1 Camalot.

For this reason many climbers, myself included, prefer to have a “mixed” rack. Having only one brand of cams on your harness can lead to gear that is tipped out –meaning the cam you put in is too small for an ideal placement, but the next size larger is too big to fit in. This dangerous situation is most pronounced in sandstone where cracks are very uniform and go on forever. There, if limited to one brand, you might lead a pitch entirely on tipped out gear. Even in other types of rock like granite, where cracks are more varied, having a mix of different brands ensures that you will be more likely to have the right piece.  The downside to the mixed rack ideal is that you will eventually need to learn more cam sizes. The good news is that if you are in climbing for the long haul, you have time to do so, and will end up with better gear skills when it’s all said and done.

The brands listed in the examples  below are just suggestions. Black Diamond, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Trango and Wild Country all make great gear. Check them out for yourself and see which designs appeal to you. If you’re psyched on a brand that isn’t listed below, it’s pretty easy to make substitutions simply by looking at the size charts. If you already have a “brand loyal” rack, keep an open mind and consider getting an overlapping size rather than your fourth #2 Camalot.

Step 1: Admit You Have a Problem: No Rack.

Then buy a few cams in the mid sizes that aren’t covered by your wires. Since double axle cams cover a given size range with fewer pieces, I’d suggest starting out with a single rack of Black Diamond Camalots or DMM Dragon cams. Since there are (slightly) fewer pieces to learn for a given size range, you’ll catch on quickly.

Sample Rack: Wires, Black Diamond C4: #0.5,  #0.75, #1 , #2, #3

Notes: You aren’t getting up much on your own with this rack, but it’s a start! Paired with a buddy’s rack, you might get somewhere. Skip the hexes (aka “newbie bells”) and save up for more cams.

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Step 2: Fill In Smaller Sizes

Begin to fill in the smaller sizes around the mid size pieces you just bought. Begin with smaller cams and then add a wider piece.  For the “big” piece stick with the brand you bought in step 1, but you can get a different brand for your TCUs.  It’s ok. I promise.

Sample Rack: Wires, Metolius TCUs: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Black Diamond C4: #0.5,  #0.75, #1 , #2, #3 Black Diamond #4

Notes: You all ready have some overlap! The #0.5 BD fits between the #3 and #4 Metolius TCU. Congrats.

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Step 3: Add Overlapping Sizes

Add doubles in the mid sizes (the cams you bought in Step 1.) If your head is swimming and you are tired of learning new sizes, then get the same brand you started with, but if you want to take my advice, get similar sizes in a different brand that compliments the gaps in your current rack.  (i.e. if you have a set of double axel cams [BD or DMM], get a set of single axel cams, or vice versa)

Sample Rack: Wires,  Metolius TCU’s: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Black Diamond C4: #0.5,  #0.75, #1 , #2, #3 #4 Wild Country: #2, #2.5, #3, #3.5

Notes: This rack now has considerable overlap from the #3 TCU to the #4 Black Diamond, essentially giving doubles in these sizes. You are up and running at this point.

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Step 4: Add to it

Add doubles in the smaller sizes and add some Offwidth gear. It’s time to start thrutchin’. Yeah buddy….

Sample Rack: Wires,  Metolius TCUs: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Metolius Master Cams: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Black Diamond C4: #0.5,  #.075, #1 , #2, #3, #4 Wild Country: #2, #2.5, #3, #3.5 Black Diamond C4 #0.3, #0.4, #5, #6

Notes: This is a legit rack and for most venues, you will be pretty set. Since this example already had a set of TCUs in the small sizes, a set of FCUs (Master cams) were added.  It’s all about versatility, right?

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Step 5: Add Some More

Add  doubles in overlapping sizes. Once you get to this point you’re ready to think about heading to the desert (paired with a borrowed rack or two of equal or greater size.)

Sample Rack: Wires,  Metolius TCU’s: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Metolius Master Cams: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Add a second set of Black Diamond C4:#0.3, #0.4  #0.5,  #0.75, #1 , #2, #3 Add a second set of Wild Country: #2, #2.5, #3, #3.5 Black Diamond C4 #4,  #5, #6

Notes: This is an example of what you might eventually want to work towards. You can stay on Step 5 as long as you need to, adding a piece or two at a time.  Remember, Rome wasn’t built in a day.

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Step 6: Add Niche Cams

Add niche cams you NEED.  Move towards having doubles or triples in overlapping sizes.

Sample “Heavy Hitter’s” Rack: Wires,  Metolius TCU’s: #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Metolius Master Cams: (Add Doubles) #00, #0, #1, #2, #3, #4 Black Diamond (doubles)  C4:#0.3, #0.4  #0.5,  #0.75, #1 , #2, #3 Wild Country (doubles) : #2, #2.5, #3, #3.5 Black Diamond C4 #4,  #5, #6 Add: Trango Big Bro #4, Camp Tri Cams, Offset Master Cams or whatever other weirdness you’ll need out there.

Notes: The rack listed above is honestly smaller than what a lot of my friends (Ok….and I…) have. This isn’t a compensation thing I swear.  While the whole rack never goes up a free route, each and every piece gets used cragging (where you might climb 100+ feet of the same size cam.) In fact, we all have to borrow one another’s racks to supplement on a regular basis. That said, having a huge rack just to have a huge rack is expensive and dumb. Don’t be a gear whore. Aren’t there supposed to be 12 steps? Anyway, I’m cutting it off here as I can’t afford anymore.

Related Posts:

• Nice Rack: A Practical Guide to Cams
• Is Fixed Gear Safe?
• When To Retire Climbing Gear – Part 2: ‘Biners, Cams and More

Tags: climbing, gear guides, trad climbing