What to wear
"Warming-up" on a chilly day at the Motherlode.
"Warming-up" on a chilly day at the Motherlode.
The first rule is to bring a lot of clothing for your single-pitch climbing or bouldering session. I typically crag- or pebble-wrestle in cotton as it’s more comfy and less geeky. I rest easy knowing that, since I’m close to the car, weight and moisture management aren’t a concern. If you have a long approach or prefer something up top that wicks, choose a synthetic or merino wool tee. Pack for comfort (and style?), knowing that there’s no harm if extra layers stay in your pack all day.
Foundation: Start with your “normal” climbing kit of pants and a T-shirt. Even if it’s quite cold, you could very well end up climbing in just this.
Insulation: The first thing to wear over your base is a long-sleeve T-shirt. This adds insulation and gives you the option of wearing it while you climb. A medium-weight synthetic or wool baselayer does the job nicely, but cotton will also work. Next, add a hoody or fleece. I like to have something that is form-fitting enough to climb in. A regular cotton hoody works just fine as long as it’s not too baggy. For a more tech option, bring a midweight fleece like a Mountain Hardwear Microchill fleece or a Patagonia Micro D Hoody. I also bring a warmer fleece like a Patagonia Retro X. Make sure it fits over your hoody and under your puffy. If it’s really cold, bring lightweight long underwear bottoms to wear under your climbing pants.
Puffy/Belay Coat: Hands down the most important piece in your kit, a down or synthetic puffy is essential. I recommend down as it takes a lot longer to “pack out” (lose insulation) than synthetic fills. The crag environment is generally dry, so there isn’t much advantage to synthetic fills. Don’t bring a thin, stylie city puffy either. You need warmth, and a “real” down jacket with at least 600 fill is in order. A hood can be nice, but isn’t a necessity. There are a ton of great down jackets available, but if you need a specific recommendation, get the Marmot Zeus.
Belay in a puffy, climb in a tee. Andy Chapman & Luke Kretschmar both staying warm.
Additional clothing items: Bring a beanie and gloves (not just your belay gloves), and even consider sweat pants or puffy pants to put on over your climbing pants.
Footwear: Flip-flops are standard issue cragging in warm temps and still might have a place when it’s cold, but bring shoes for warmth. A pair of floppy trad shoes, like stretched out moccasyms are nice to have because you can wear socks with them. You probably won’t want to wear these on anything hard, but for warming up they sure are nice. Who knows? It might even improve your footwork.
Miscellaneous cold-weather gear
Hand-warmers (you know, the ones you use skiing?) are essential and go a long way to keep your digits warm. Put one in the pocket of your puffy and another in your chalk bag. Bring a double walled Thermos with hot liquids or soup. Cold temps mean that cold liquids (like water) are unappealing, running the risk of dehydration. Hot tea will help keep you hydrated and warm. If I’m out for a whole day, I will often bring a small stove so I can heat up soup. A Jetboil is perfect and takes up minimal space.
OK, how do I carry all this?
A good strategy to free up pack space is to carry a gallon of water outside of your pack rather than using a bladder inside. You can also get creative with lashing things onto the outside of your pack and carrying your food in a separate grocery bag. When really crunched for space, carry the rope-bag on the outside as well. If your “normal” crag pack just won’t cut it, consider bringing a larger pack. I will often bust out my 65L pack for winter duty (especially if I’m trad climbing), just so I don’t have to worry about how I pack things.
Staying warm
Happiness is hot soup.
This is the name of the game. You will naturally warm up while climbing, but be prepared to have very cold fingers, especially on your first pitch or two. Combat this necessary evil by starting with easier routes than you might normally warm up on. Frequently grope that hand warmer in your chalk bag, (or heat up “hot rocks” on your stove, taking care to not burn a hole in your chalk bag!)
Staying warm is a lot harder to do when you aren’t climbing. Move around and don’t sit too long between burns. Talk to your partner about the importance of keeping a faster pace throughout the day. Minimize down time and hanging if you can. Before you start climbing try to get warm by running up or down the trail, doing arm circles and jumping jacks. Wait until the very last minute to shed your layers and cast off.
Be prepared to be a bit cold for the first part of your pitch, knowing that you will warm up. Once you lower off, put your layers back on immediately, even if you are hot from climbing. Do this even before your hurty shoes get ripped off your feet. With the right strategy and proper kit you can not only prolong your season but also have a good time doing it.
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Tags: climbing, gear, sport climbing