Andy Chapman

You’ll Shoot Your Eye Out – Festive Perspective on Ice Climbing

By: Andy Chapman | December 13th, 2010
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Painting by Andy

Quito Skyline. Oil on Canvas by Andy Chapman

I’ll never forget that Christmas. I had been in Ecuador six months and walked multiple times up every volcano in the country that wasn’t erupting. My glacier slogging game was perfected: self-arrest, rest step, French technique, setting up Z-pulleys and hip belays were all on speed dial. Unfortunately, I had become genuinely tired of being a mountaineer and just walking in crampons. I wanted to be an alpinist. I coveted the few “steep” lines those volcanoes offered. There was only one problem: I had but a lowly mountaineering axe. Read More …

Camp Chef: Spend Thanksgiving Car Camping

By: Andy Chapman | November 18th, 2010
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Desert Turkey

Desert Turkey

Historically Thanksgiving has not been my favorite holiday. The ritualistic over-consumption of turkey, the viewing of football, the canned cranberry paired with the inevitable trip to visit relatives largely soured my pallet.  For years I shunned the holiday and stuck to my routine whenever I could. I spent some memorable Thanksgivings  climbing, usually in the desert, but skipped the fluff of fancy meals.  Eating Tasty Bites was ok, but decidedly un-festive. Read More …

Gear Thoughts for Kalymnos

By: Andy Chapman | November 9th, 2010
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Greek gear

Greek gear

In addition to crowd control tactics, to climb in Kalymnos you need a few other pieces of gear beyond your standard North American sport climbing kit of one 60m rope and 10-12 draws.  Massive tufa routes clocking in at 35 to 55m require a shit load of draws (especially if you want to be able to do more than one route that day ) 70m ropes are a minimum requirement and 100m ropes are necessary for lines that don’t have mid way lower offs. Above all, you need kneepads. Lifetime kneebar total was doubled my first day there. Draws are not fixed, even on massively overhanging routes. This surprised me as cleaning can be nearly impossible while lowering (often requiring a top-rope cleaning burn). Read More …

Climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

By: Andy Chapman | November 8th, 2010
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Kalymnos Sunrise

Kalymnos Sunrise

It all started innocently enough with a conversation with Diane: Should we get married? We talked objectively, weighing the pros and cons of marriage vs. “partnership”, examined social stigmas, and discussed various forms that unions can take. We largely centered on what we did not like: Materialistic, large-scale, impersonal weddings costing a small fortune, leaving the couple nothing but cheesy photos, an expensive shrink-wrapped dress and some frozen cake. We also bemoaned the lame “immediate comfort” honeymoons that people tend to take: cruises, beach side hotels, all-inclusive Sandals Jamaica. The conversation then turned to the hypothetical honeymoon we might take. Where to go? What to do? I get cagey and intolerable when subjected to cities or beaches without the pressure release valve that is climbing. We took a peek at our ever-growing list of places to visit and Greece jumped to the top. It started to feel like we had begun to plan a trip, not to mention a wedding. Read More …

Relationship Guide to Climbing: You and Your Partner

By: Andy Chapman | September 14th, 2010
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You and Your Partner

You and Your Partner

Having someone to climb with does not mean you are out of the woods. Relationship drama is far from over once you leave the dating scene and move to more committed relationships. The problems become much more subtle beyond your first climb.

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Relationship Guide to Climbing: How to Find a Mate

By: Andy Chapman | September 13th, 2010
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Find a new mate

Find a new mate

You’ve been up for an hour when the phone rings. “Dude. Gotta bail blah blah blah.” Shit. The weather is perfect and it’s your only day off this week. Time to look through your list of contacts and start making some last minute calls. Climbing is a relationship sport and unless you plan a career exclusively as a soloist or an anti-social boulderer, you need a partner every time you go out. Herein lies the rub. This two-part guide will help you navigate the quagmire of relationship pitfalls to keep you, and your partner happy and sending. Read More …

Revisiting Object of Desire: Pacific Northwest

By: Andy Chapman | August 19th, 2010
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Sunset bivy on the way up Mt. Baker

Sunset bivy on the way up Mt. Baker

Ever think back to high school to the guy or girl you had a major crush on during that oh-so whimsical, awkward, angsty part of your life?  He/she was the physical embodiment of perfection; your heart raced in his presence; her page in your yearbook was well-thumbed … or perhaps stuck to the facing page. It tragically never worked out.  You and your perfect match never made it past that isolated summer make-out session and you went your separate ways. Read More …