DIY Splitboard Detailed Instructions
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Table of Contents
- Tools
- Section 1: Split and Seal
- Section 2: Mount Pivot Hooks
- Section 3: Mount Touring Bracket and Climbing Bar
- Section 4: Mount Slider Plates
- Section 5: Mount Tip Clip
- Section 6: Seal T-Nut Holes (optional)
Tools
- Safety goggles
- Circular saw with carbide tip blade
- Drill Bits: 3/16", 1/4", 9/64" (or 4.1 x 9mm ski mount bit), 3/4" wood bit
- 3/8" countersink bit
- #3 Phillips screwdriver
- C-clamps
- 3/8" nut driver
- Tape measure
- Chalk line
- Edge file
- Center punch or hammer and nail
- Wood glue
- 24 hour 2-part gel epoxy
- Spray polyurethane
- Razor blade
- Packing tape (optional)
- Plastic or razor scraper (optional)
- Hair dryer (optional)
Section 1: Split and Seal
- Clamp your board off the edge of your workbench or place it on two sawhorses.
- Use the chalk line to mark the center of your board.
- Use circular saw with carbide tip blade to cut board in half.
- Use a flat file and sanding block to sand exposed edge of board. File P-tex edge at 45-degrees to prevent delaminating. Round off corners of tip and tail.
- Cover base and topsheet and use a light coat of polyurethane spray to seal edge.
- Let dry.
Tip: The cut doesn’t have to be perfect—the two halves will fit together like a jigsaw puzzle—but once you start KEEP GOING as you don’t want the blade to waver too much. For a super-straight cut, clamp a straight edge (like a 2×4) parallel to the marked center line at a distance that is equal to your circular saw’s guide.
Section 2: Mount Pivot Hooks
- Place the two board halves together and lay on flat surface to find the contact points.
- Mark the top of the board 1-inch towards the bindings from the contact point
- Pull boards together tightly and place pivot hook template stickers over your marks with the dotted line over the cut.
- Use razor blade to cut along dotted line at the center of stickers.
- Center punch crosshair marks. If you don’t have a center punch, just use a hammer and nail.
- Use 3/16" bit and drill completely through board.
- Flip board over and countersink using 3/8" countersink bit. IMPORTANT: Go slowly. Go a little bit at a time. You don’t want to counter sink too much. Only enough so that screwhead is flush with base.
- Thread screws from the bottom of the board. IMPORTANT: Place bushing on outside screw (the arrow on the sticker points to it) and pivot hook on inside screw.
- Use 3/8" socket (nut driver) while holding allen key in place. Tighten nuts on top of bushings.
Section 3: Mount Touring Bracket and Climbing Bar
NOTE: “Balance point" refers to where the weight of the board is centered; “pivot point" is where the binding interface will hinge. You want the pivot point to be slightly in front of the balance point so that the ski is ever so slightly back heavy (this ensures your tip stays up for kick turns and gliding).
- Place the board on something thin like a plastic scraper so that it balances horizontally.
- Mark this point—this is the balance point.
- Tape touring bracket templates so that the “Pivot Point" line is about 1/4" to 1/2" in front of the balance point (towards tip).
- Center punch all drill locations.
- Drill a 1/4" pilot hole.
- Carefully use the 3/4" wood bit to countersink.
- Tighten screws and T-nuts.
- Perform Steps 3-7 for Climbing Bars using provided 10/32" screws and T-nuts, making sure the climbing bar flips down towards the nose of the board.
Section 4: Mount Slider Plates
- Use pivot hooks to secure board together and determine stance angles. IMPORTANT: You cannot change the stance once you drill the holes.
- Place slider plate template stickers on board, making sure crosshairs do not interfere with existing inserts.
- Center punch crosshair marks.
- Carefully drill holes about 1/4" deep with 9/64" bit. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH BOARD. TIP: Buy a ski mount bit or bribe your local shop guy with some beer.
- Fill holes with wood glue or epoxy.
- Place nylon tracks over holes and hand tighten screws, being careful not to strip screws.
Section 5: Mount Tip Clip
- Position tip clip template sticker at tip so the rounded edge is flush with board.
- Center punch crosshairs.
- Use 3/16" bit to drill completely through board.
- Insert rivet and bushing from top of board in the left hole (the hooked/slotted end of the clip).
- Flip board over and carefully flare out rivet so that it is flat against the base. TIP: Place tapered head of slider pin in the rivet end, pound lightly with a hammer to flare. Then pound with hammer to make flush with board.
- Place the hole of the clip over the right hole and insert rivet.
- Flip board over and flare out rivet and pound flush.
- Repeat Steps 1-7 for the tail clip.
Section 6: Seal T-Nut Holes (optional)
- Use alcohol to clean out 1/4" T-nut holes on base.
- Warm each hole with hair dryer.
- Surround each hole with packing tape to prevent epoxy from touching wax/base.
- Mix 2-part epoxy well on a piece of foil or cardboard
- Fill holes with epoxy
- Use scraper to fill in, flatten, and smooth the epoxy
- Let dry, sand even
- Remove packing tape
[...] This page presents general instructions on how to make your own splitboard using the Voile Split Decision Kit. These steps can help you decide if splitting a snowboard is something you want / can do. They correspond to our DIY splitboard detailed instructions. [...]
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