Gear Articles tagged ‘alpine climbing’

Top 10 Ways To Get Hurt While Climbing

By: Adam Riser | August 3rd, 2010
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Routefinding errors contributed to 20% of climbing accidents in 2009. Jesse Mattner staying on route on The Scenic Cruise (V 5.10+) in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

Each year, the American Alpine Club publishes the one book that no one wants to be in—Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Inside its pages is everything from the most mellow of injuries to horrible accidents that ended in death. The reason that the American Alpine Club publishes such a depressing book every year is so climbers have the opportunity to learn from others’ mistakes. In the 2010 edition, which covers the 2009 season, there were a total of 126 accidents that made the book. Of these accidents, there were 10 things that stuck out as contributing factors.

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A Guide to Surviving Classic Alpine Routes

By: Adam Riser | August 2nd, 2010
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The news about the recent lightning storm and resulting rescue efforts on the Grand Teton has been both extremely sad and very uplifting. One climber tragically died, and 83 rescuers and emergency professionals put in an impressive effort to get 16 other victims off the mountain alive. Of course, it didn’t take long for people who weren’t there to begin reporting on the cost of the rescue, and I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before others begin to question the cost (as if 16 lives isn’t worth $50,000).

Unfortunately, this is not the first time that a large rescue has taken place on a classic moderate alpine route. Every range has its classic routes, and these routes tend to attract more climbers than all the other routes put together. The real danger comes on moderate classics that are easy enough to attract relatively inexperienced climbers in large numbers. On everything from the Tetons to Mt. Hood to Everest, these classics have been the site of the climbing community’s greatest tragedies. No one is responsible for you up there except you. So take some responsibility, and learn how to keep yourself safe on the classics. Here are a few tips that can help you avoid making the news.

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Avoid Altitude Sickness: How to Acclimatize

By: Adam Riser | May 13th, 2010
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Mt Rainier (14,411ft) as seen from sea level

Mt Rainier (14,411ft) as seen from sea level

Proper acclimatization allows your body to adjust to both the lack of available oxygen in the air and the lack of barometric pressure experienced at high altitudes. There are a few different ways to acclimatize, but your decision on which strategy to use depends greatly on your chosen route, climbing style, and personal genetics. Read More …

Avoid Altitude Sickness: Threats of Altitude

By: Adam Riser | May 12th, 2010
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Andy Chapman above 6,000-meters in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.

As a result of the lower barometric pressure at high altitude, the air (and the oxygen in it) becomes less dense (fewer molecules per unit of volume), so you cannot get as much of it into your lungs. Have you ever put a bag of chips in your car and then driven over a pass? The bag that was about half full of air will be bursting at the seams by the time you’re a few thousand feet higher. Though the amount of air in the bag hasn’t changed, it’s under less pressure than it was at a lower elevation. That expansion is similar to what’s happening to the air around you when you climb a peak. However, while the atmosphere around you is expanding, your lungs are the same size, so each breath you take has a lower percentage of oxygen than it did at a lower elevation.

As you near the poles, the atmosphere becomes less deep (there’s less distance from sea level to the edge of the toposphere at the poles than there is near the equator). So, comparable air density decreases happen at lower altitudes at the poles than they do at the equator. As a result, altitude changes have larger physiological impacts near the poles. For example, 20,000 feet in Alaska feels higher than 20,000 feet in Peru.

No matter where you are, you have to take more breaths at a higher elevation to make up for the lack of oxygen in your body, so even just walking around feels like you’re running. This lower barometric pressure and decreased oxygen may cause a number of life-threatening illnesses, so proper acclimatization is key on any trip to a big peak. Read More …