Gear Articles tagged ‘climbing’

Daisy Chains: Anchor Link or the Weakest Link?

By: Adam Riser | August 16th, 2010
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Backcountry.com employee Ben Sukow using a properly clipped daisy chain at an exposed belay on Hell Raiser (III 5.11)

Daisy chain safety isn’t exactly a new issue, but I still see people do it wrong often enough that I feel it’s worth the digital print space to revisit the concern. A lot of people use daisy chains on their harness for clipping into belays on the way up a multi-pitch route or at rappel anchors on the way down. There’s nothing wrong with it. You do it, I do it, Tommy Caldwell does it. The key is to do it right so you’re connected in a manner that maintains the sling’s strength.

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More Outdoor Giving

By: Kate Showalter | August 12th, 2010
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Donated climbing helmets (Photo by Kris Kristofferson - Khumbu Climbing School)

In an era when the blank spaces on the map are all but gone, when very little true wilderness remains, and when too many people stay indoors with their TVs, those of us who play in the backcountry might feel compelled to act as stewards of the backcountry by taking care of and preserving the places we love. To continue with yesterday’s list of outdoor organizations we like, we’ve compiled a few more favorites and other ways you can get involved. Read More …

A Guide to Surviving Classic Alpine Routes

By: Adam Riser | August 2nd, 2010
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The news about the recent lightning storm and resulting rescue efforts on the Grand Teton has been both extremely sad and very uplifting. One climber tragically died, and 83 rescuers and emergency professionals put in an impressive effort to get 16 other victims off the mountain alive. Of course, it didn’t take long for people who weren’t there to begin reporting on the cost of the rescue, and I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before others begin to question the cost (as if 16 lives isn’t worth $50,000).

Unfortunately, this is not the first time that a large rescue has taken place on a classic moderate alpine route. Every range has its classic routes, and these routes tend to attract more climbers than all the other routes put together. The real danger comes on moderate classics that are easy enough to attract relatively inexperienced climbers in large numbers. On everything from the Tetons to Mt. Hood to Everest, these classics have been the site of the climbing community’s greatest tragedies. No one is responsible for you up there except you. So take some responsibility, and learn how to keep yourself safe on the classics. Here are a few tips that can help you avoid making the news.

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How to Make Good Tape Gloves for Climbing

By: Adam Riser | July 23rd, 2010
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Backcountry.com copywriter Andy Anderson stoked to have a good tape job on the 155-foot-long Lite Not Solid (5.10d)

The difference between a good tape glove for crack climbing and a bad one can be fairly minor … or it can cost you a send. Good tape gloves save your hands and let you get away with a bit of thrutching when things get desperate. Bad tape gloves can be worse than wearing nothing at all. I’ve had tape gloves ball up and keep me from putting my hands in a crack, I’ve had them come off on the fifth pitch of an 18-pitch route, and I’ve even seen a friend who went with the old-school full-wrap method accidentally clip his tape glove (with his hand in it) to a piece of gear. Needless to say, that one took some doing to get out of.

A good tape glove should be thin enough that it doesn’t really change your hand size, it should be durable enough to last 20+ pitches, and it should leave your palm completely clear of any tape. There are several “perfect” tape gloves out there, but this one is my favorite.

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Gaper-Proof Your Climbing

By: Adam Riser | July 14th, 2010
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Before: A gape-tastic climber breaking the hell out of rule #7

A friend of mine recently started climbing and fell in love with it right away. Now he can’t get enough. Good on ya mate! On about his second day of climbing he turned to another friend and said “alright dude, what do I need to know to keep from looking like a total gaper when I’m climbing?” My friend came up with a list of things not to do. Here are a few of the highlights…

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Take the Suck out of Hanging Belays

By: Adam Riser | July 13th, 2010
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Looking down from the hanging belay at the top of pitch 13 on the Lotus Flower Tower. Only five more to go.

Hanging belays look great in photos, but let’s face it, the novelty disappears pretty quickly. After a half hour of hanging in your harness, your legs go numb, your kidneys throb, and your patience of your partner’s slow, methodical technique begins to wear thin. There are a few things that you can do to reduce the suck, so before you go get on something with pitch after pitch of steepness and no ledges in sight, make sure your bag of tricks is nice and full.

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You Must Be This Old to Ride Mt. Everest

By: Andy Anderson | July 8th, 2010
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How’s this for a secure world record? On the heels of 13-year-old Jordan Romero’s May 22nd summit of the world’s highest peak, which made him the youngest ever to summit, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA), which controls climbing activity from the Tibetan side,  issued new regulations on June 10 that ban those under 18 and over 60 from attempting the peak. Read More …

Guide to Backcountry Bottle Openers

By: Adam Riser | July 1st, 2010
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Whatever you do, don't use the tooth method.

Whatever you do, don't use the tooth method.

You head back to camp after a good, long day of gettin’ after it and pull an icy cold beer from the cooler to celebrate. Suddenly, and not without a small measure of panic, you realize you forgot your bottle opener. Before you resort to breaking the neck off your Polygamy Porter with a rock and risk drinking down busted glass with your brew, open your eyes and look for some other alternatives. There are plenty of items in camp that will help you get access to a cold one. Depending on your chosen activity, you may have nearly limitless options.

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GTS: Get The Shot

By: Adam Riser | June 25th, 2010
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From here, my friend flipped upside down and hit the wall head first. Of course I don't have any of that on film, because I lowered my camera when I should have been snapping frames.

This is the beginning of all hell breaking loose, but I missed all the gnar.

“I’m ready!” you tell your friend above, and a couple seconds later hear the distant response of “OK, dropping!” You fire off frames as your friend bursts from the lip of the jump, but he lets out an “Oh S#!T” as soon as he’s in the air, and you both know this is going to end badly. You have two choices. You can either lower your camera, and cringe as your buddy takes a massive digger, or you can hold down the shutter release and fire off frames like a machine gunner making his last stand. Either way, strange as it may seem, the first thing your friend will say when you get over to him is, “Tell me you got a picture of that.”

I’ve seen some pretty nasty stuff happen to friends while I was holding a camera, but I rarely got the defining photo because I didn’t want to be that jerk who stood there taking pictures while his friend got broken off. Read More …

News coverage that makes climbers throw things

By: Adam Riser | June 9th, 2010
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Climbers tend to cringe whenever they hear climbing mentioned on television. I’m not talking about Cliffhanger reruns either. It seems that every time a story involves climbing (or something the media decides is climbing), the news gets a hold of it and makes all climbers seem like idiots who are risking their lives for thrills. Yeah, they’re probably right. We should just sit on the couch and complain about the people who are still outside. Maybe news coverage wouldn’t be so bad if every hiker who falls off a trail or high-school kid who stole his mom’s clothesline gets labeled as a “very experienced climber.” That kind of stuff makes me want to break a television. Maybe I should buy a TV so I have one to break. These are just a few of my favorite “climbing” stories. Makes me wonder how bad the news screws up the stuff that I don’t know anything about. Read More …

Everest: A Cynical View of the Latest ‘Firsts’

By: Adam Riser | June 2nd, 2010
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Mt. Everest is the highest peak on earth. So what? It’s been a long time since climbing Everest was actually the pinnacle of mountaineering achievement. These days, it’s all about firsts, but not in the traditional climbing sense. Instead of putting up a new route or repeating an established line by a style that advances the standards of mountaineering, people tend to focus on more obscure firsts that don’t actually require the advancement of, well, anything.

Things that mattered:

Before I start into a rant about the peak, let me first point out that quite a few very influential and sometimes ground-breaking feats have taken place on Everest. Not surprisingly, most of them happened before web-linked video cameras were a constant presence on the mountain. Read More …