Gear Articles tagged ‘safety’

Accident Analysis: Ice Climbing Fall

By: Adam Riser | March 24th, 2011
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I just stumbled across a post by Will Gadd (one of the world’s most accomplished ice climbers) on his Gravsports blog which provides accident analysis on a video showing a nasty lead fall.

If you’re an ice climber (whether you lead or toprope), then this is definitely worth taking a good hard look at. You can watch the video below, but I strongly recommend you go to Will’s post to read his analysis, as it will teach you as much or more than the video will. Thanks Will for posting this.

Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo.

How to Drive (and Not to Drive) to the Ski Area During a Snowstorm

By: Kate Showalter | December 9th, 2010
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Driving 23 miles took us more than three hours.

Around 8 p.m. on a recent Friday night, CalTrans announced that, beginning 20 miles west of the top of Donner Pass, Calif., all vehicles needed traction tires and either chains or four-wheel/all-wheel drive. We were just three exits from the chain-up checkpoint when we drove into mayhem. Semis were lined up in the pullouts, and their drivers were chaining up. Installers dressed in bright yellow rain gear were, for a fee, helping car drivers get their chains on. Getting to the checkpoint took us an hour.

At the chain-up checkpoint, we exited the highway, and my husband put chains on our car’s front tires, and then he drove a few hundred yards and hopped back out to double-check that the chains were secure (an important step if you don’t want to leave your chains on the highway). Then a CalTrans worker waved us back onto the freeway. We didn’t get far before we were at a standstill again.

Yes, conditions were bad—an early season storm started as rain and turned to snow … and lots of it—but I’m certain we could have all moved through smoothly albeit slowly if drivers didn’t make so many boner moves. Read More …

Backcountry Travel and the Herding Mentality

By: Adam Riser | November 5th, 2010
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Jamon Whitehead and Pip Hunt discuss their options before dropping into the soup.

“Think for yourself / Question authority” — Tool (channeling Timothy Leary)

I took my first avalanche course about 10 years ago and learned a lot about the causes of avalanches. But the most important thing I learned was how to have an opinion and speak my mind when I didn’t like something. My instructor’s lesson was very simple. He skied out in front, and we all followed along. After a while, we ended up above a creek and below a nasty-looking slope. It was a terrible place to be, but I hadn’t even noticed. Then he turned and asked me if I was comfortable standing where I was. I looked around and answered no.

“Then why the hell are you here, Adam?” he asked me.
“Because I was following you.”
“Well, why did you follow me into here?”
“Because you’re teaching the class.”
“So?” he finished. And I turned around and got the hell out of there.

The lesson stuck, and I always take it with me into the mountains. Timothy Leary was right. You should think for yourself and question authority (such as more-experienced skiers). It may just save your life.
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Are Belay Loops Safe?

By: Adam Riser | October 26th, 2010
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Andy trusts his life to his belay loop in Zion National Park

The belay loop is the strongest part of the climbing harness, so why do so many climbers not trust it? It’s very common to see climbers backing up their belay loop with a separate piece of webbing or clipping their belay carabiner through the waist and leg tie-in points to avoid the belay loop. I’ve even seen some climbers cut the belay loops off their harnesses because they’re “old school” and never had a belay loop when they first started climbing. Although this has always been the case, fear over belay loops jumped off the radar when Todd Skinner tragically fell to his death after his belay loop failed. This had such an impact that backup loops are often referred to as Skinner loops. Unfortunately, most of the things that climbers do to skip the belay loop for extra safety actually makes the system more dangerous.

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When To Retire Climbing Gear – Part 2: ‘Biners, Cams and More

By: Adam Riser | October 18th, 2010
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Andy Anderson trusting his gear while taking a big ride on Isotoner Moaner (5.12 a/b)

Aluminum does not have a lifespan, so aluminum gear can, in theory, last forever. The reality is that gear takes a beating and will need to be replaced from time to time. How often it needs to be replaced depends on how you use your gear. A fixed quickdraw may find the rope-end carabiner worn to the point of being dangerous within a single summer, but the carabiner that you use to rack your stoppers will probably last forever.

In case you missed it, check out Part I:

When To Retire Climbing Gear Part 1: Ropes, Harnesses, Slings, Helmets

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When To Retire Climbing Gear Part 1: Ropes, Harnesses, Slings, Helmets

By: Adam Riser | October 15th, 2010
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Dude, they were totally going to throw this out. Free gear, bra!

Skiers often buy a whole new kit every season. Mountain bikers get new frames with surprising regularity. Rock climbers, on the other hand, often use the same cams, carabiners, harnesses, and even ropes year after year after year. This is pretty ironic, considering the fact that of all these groups, the climber are the ones whose lives literally depend on their gear. Nearly every climber out there has at least one piece of gear that would fail an inspection by an industrial rope access technician (the closest thing to climbing that actually has guidelines on retiring gear).

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Fight the Freeze: Hypothermia

By: Adam Riser | September 24th, 2010
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Wet snow and cold weather—ideal conditions for hypothermia.

When I was a climbing guide and rafting guide in the Pacific Northwest, hypothermia was constantly on my mind. Washington is a very wet and often cold state where people can get into trouble quickly if they don’t pay attention. The right combination of weather conditions or just a cold swim through a rapid can easily be enough to cause the onset of mild hypothermia, and severe hypothermia and serious life-threatening consequences aren’t far behind. Taking the appropriate precautions to help keep your body temperature where it should be and knowing what to do if your body temperature begins to drop can save your life or your friend’s.

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Speeding on the Slopes Results in Jail Time? For Real?

By: Kate Showalter | September 23rd, 2010
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About a week ago, an acquaintance told me that Park City, the town in which Deer Valley and Park City ski resorts are located, had put a law on the books that makes speeding on the ski slopes a misdemeanor that could result in a fine or jail time. After doing some research, I’m fairly certain he got this bit of info from Teton Gravity Research.

The Sept. 13 TGR thread begins with DasBlunt posting an article published on Zeta Page about how those who ski too fast at Utah resorts could face jail time. Those on the TGR thread then go on to express their opinions about this policy—some for it, most against. A sample:

Ski patrollers are NOT traffic cops. What is “too fast”? Obviously, out of control is another thing altogether. This is GHEY. – axebiker

Not much is better than a good rant, especially when it happens to be one that gets you thinking about snow and stoked for the season. But reader beware. Read More …

Learning the Ropes: Rope Ratings, Length, Rope Care

By: Adam Riser | May 27th, 2010
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Last week we got you dialed on the different types of ropes; read on to learn about rope ratings, how to choose the right rope length, and how to properly care for your rope. Read More …

When To Purify Water

By: staff | May 24th, 2010
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The difference between water purification versus filtration is that purification eliminates viruses, whereas filtration does not. Most purifying systems use a chemical component to destroy viruses in addition to regular filtration. Read More …

Improvised Splints – Part III: Knee, Lower Leg, and Ankle Injuries

By: Patrick Kailey | April 29th, 2010
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In today’s installment of the three-part series Improvised Splints, we’ll go over how to make splints for knee, lower leg, and ankle injuries.
Check out Part I: Basic Principles of Splints if you don’t know what a cravats does, or check out Part II if you broke an arm. Read More …